Calabria is situated in the very southwestern part of the Italian mainland, known as the “tip of the boot”. This gorgeous piece of land feels very rough with its rocky soils but will stun you with its beaches and rich ancient Greek history. The whole region is not known for its fertility, and essentially the grape vine is one of the only crops that can survive this wild corner of the country. The viticulture was founded by the ancient Greeks and is now mainly focused on local consumption, however many producers are working hard to increase the quality of the wines.
The rocky soil will appear very wild and rough, and is consisting of limestone, clay, granite and slate. However, proportions do vary from one sub-region to another. Generally speaking, the climate is mediterranean with hot summers and mild, humid winters. In the sub-region of Cosenza, the winters tend to be cold, due to the proximity of the Sila mountain range. Here the wines will have more minerality and acidity.
From one sub-region to the other, different varieties will be planted, but the most popular ones will be Malvasia, Trebbiano, Greco and Chardonnay for the white. In terms of red varieties, we see lots of plantings of the Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, Nerello Cappuccio and the Calabrese (Nero d’Avola).
The region unfortunately does not have any DOCG and only 9 DOC appellations to offer:
- DOC Terra di Cosenza
- DOC Savuto
- DOC Lamezia
- DOC Scavigna
- DOC Bivongi
- DOC Cirò
- DOC Melissa
- DOC Sant Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto
- DOC Greco di Bianco
The DOC Terra di Cosenza is actually a grouping of several tiny DOC’s that now act as sub-zones under the larger Terra di Cosenza. Pollino, Colline del Crati, Condoleo, Donnici, Esaro, San Vito di Luzzi and Verbicaro all can retain the natural acidity in their grapes thanks to the altitude found on the Sila mountain range. A range of varieties are planted throughout these different sub-zones, such as Greco and Aglianico, to more local varieties such as Pecorello and Gaglioppo. The Pecorello is a local white variety with aromas of lemon, peach, white flowers and a touch of minerals. Gaglioppo is a local red variety that has family ties with the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese, and consists of aromas such as cranberries, red currant, but also a touch of leather and tobacco. Due to the cooler temperatures of this DOC, it is also possible to plant international varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
Leaving the region of Terra di Consenza on the west side, you find the DOC Savuto, with a large focus on rosso and rosato wines made of the Gaglioppo grape, along with Greco Nero and Nerello Cappuccio. The DOC’s south of Savuto, DOC Scavigna and DOC Lamezia both produce excellent Greco wines, beautiful as aperitif, but even greater with Pizza Calabrese con Tonno. Pizza with tuna and anchovies. The reds of Lameza are mostly made with Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grapes, which are a bit more subtle in style and pair very well with local casseroles with pork and red capsicums. DOC Bivongi can be found just north of the town of Riace, is focussed mainly on Greco and Gaglioppo wines.
DOC Cirò Is the appellation that has the most nostalgia for the wines produced by the ancient Greeks. The white wines are produced with crisp Greco and floral Trebbiano grapes and pair very well with the Pesce Spada, grilled swordfish, preferably with garlic. However, it is the rosso and the rosato that are the biggest players in this region. Based on the Gaglioppo grape, you can expect a rosato (rosé) that is very fruit driven and full-bodied, yet soft in the nose. Have it with grilled prawns. The red wines produced with Gaglioppo in this DOC are considered to be amongst the best in all of Calabria. It is robust, firm, yet very soft tannins. Have it with Abbaccio Calabrese, a casserole made with lamb, potatoes and black olives.
Just below we find the DOC Melissa, focusing on the production of white Greco, Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes, along with red wines made of Gaglioppo and Greco Nero. DOC Sant Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto for the production of rosso and rosato with Gaglioppo grape and Nocera (a red Sicilian variety known for its lively acidity).
Finally, the DOC Greco di Bianco, a sweet white from the town of Biaco in the very south of Calabria. Made with Greco grapes, the wine displays a golden colour and an expressive aroma, mostly with a light bitter aftertaste and mostly high in alcohol. Perfect to pair with the Pitta ‘mpigliata, a festive cake coming from Cosenza, made with a rich filling of dried figs, honey and walnuts.
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