Nestled between the old cities of Siena and Firenze lies the historic region of Toscana, or Tuscany in English. Toscana has a long history of winemaking, going back to centuries BC. From the 15th century there has been systems in place in order to ensure the quality of the grapes. From the 19th century the advice has been made to plant Sangiovese as main variety. The region is not only known for its wine but is also home to famous writers and sculptors such as Michelangelo. Dante and Galilei. The landscape of Toscana is the perfect image of Italy for many visitors, with its olive threes, cypresses and rolling hills!
Located in central Italy, Toscana enjoys a mediterranean climate with mild winters and warm to hot summers. The subregions inland experience more cooling affects from the altitude and thus greater diurnal range. There is sufficient rainfall to ripen the grapes, yet rainfall during harvest can become a problem, along with hail in early spring. The soil types of the region are very diverse, going from iron, copper, mercury, calcium to manganese and alabaster. The production of marble from the sites of Massa and Carrara marks the region.
All types of wine can be found in Toscana, predominantly red but also white, sweet, rosé and even sparkling. The most important grape varieties are the red Sangiovese and Canaiolo, but also the international varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The white grapes are represented by Trebbiano Toscano, Vernaccia, Vermentino and Grechetto. The region is divided into many appellations from around a dozen DOCG’s, to almost 40 DOC’s the region produces up to 60% of its total wine production as high-quality wine, yet most wines from the region are considered well above average. In order to find our way through the labyrinth of appellations the region can firstly be spit into two larger sub-regions:
- The beating heart of Toscana
- The rest of Toscana
In the Beating Heart of Toscana, you find the epicentre of Tuscan wines from the most historical parts. This includes the cities of Firenze, Siena, San Gimignano and Montalcino. Here you can find some of the most famous appellations of the region:
- DOCG Chianti
- DOCG Chianti Classico
- DOCG Brunello di Montalcino
- DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
- DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano
- DOCG Carmignano
- DOC Rosso di Montalcino
- DOC Rosso di Montepulciano
- DOC Bianco dell’Empolese
- DOC Barco Reale di Carmignano
- DOC Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
- DOC Moscadello di Montalcino
- DOC Orcia
- DOC Pomino
- DOC San Gimignano
- DOC Sant’ Antimo
- DOC Val d’Arbia
- DOC Vin Santo del Chianti
- DOC Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
- DOC Vin Santo di Montepulciano
The most important grape Sangiovese is not only the most planted of the region Toscana specifically but is also the most planted variety in all of Italy, going all the way to Puglia and Sardegna! This said wines made from this grape will come in a wide range of quality levels, from acceptable, all the way to outstanding, with a characteristic high acidity, medium to high number of tannin and aromas such as red cherry, tomato leaf, balsamic and espresso. In the DOCG Chianti a minimum of 70% of Sangiovese is required in the blend, the rest can be the local variety of Canaiolo or Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc. The Cabernet grapes, however, cannot exceed 15% of the final blend. Up to 10% of white grapes are allowed as well, coming from the Trebbiano Toscano grapes, but this is rarely done anymore. The Chianti can be released from March following the year of harvest. The Riserva needs to age for 2 years before release, with or without aging on oak. Within the DOC, certain sub-regions like Chianti Rufina and Chianti Colli Senesi are determined as well, with stricter regulations.
DOCG Chianti Classico is the most historical region in between the cities of Siena and Firenze. A hilly area, where most vineyards are located 200-500 meters above sea level. This results in a general higher quality of the grapes. Again, mostly Sangiovese will be used, this time a minimum of 80%, but mostly 90% will be used. The rest of the blend will be either Canaiolo or the international variety of Merlot. No white varieties are allowed. The release will be no sooner than October the year following the harvest, and the Riserva needs to age for two years, from January following harvest.
The town of Montalcino is home to the DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, named after the town and the local name of Sangiovese, Brunello. This wine is made up of 100% Sangiovese grapes. Influences of the Mediterranean cool the grapes and also the altitude ensures acidity. The wines cannot be released until there has been a minimum of 4 years of aging, from January after harvest. Two years in oak must be included. For the Riserva a minimum of 5 years is required and two years in oak. This is a wine intended for aging and can be kept almost decades, with a beautiful range of tertiary notes as a result. Stepping down to a more easy-drinking and budget friendly style comes the DOC Rosso di Montalcino, again 100% of Sangiovese mostly made of younger vines. The aging process does not need to exceed 1 year, and a choice can be made between oak or stainless-steel tanks in order to preserve the primary fruit aromas.
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the town of Montepulciano and is often confused with the grape variety of Montepulciano coming from Abruzzo. This appellation is made of a minimum of 70% of Sangiovese grapes with addition of Canaiolo and Malvasia or Trebbiano Tosano grapes. The grapes enjoy a longer growing season due to the elevation and produce a fuller bodied style of wine. The aging requires two years after harvest, with 12-24 months in oak. An easier going alternative is available as well in the form of DOC Rosso di Montepulciano to be released from March following harvest.
The white variety of Vernaccia is featured in the DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano, the first ever Italian white to receive the highest DOCG-status in 1993, produces a very crisp and lean white wine, with a riserva that needs to age for a year before release. White varieties of mostly Trebbiano grapes are chosen for the production of DOC Vin Santo, aka the holy wine. This style has its core in Toscana but can be found all over Italy with specific appellations such as Chianti, Bolgheri and Elba. The grapes are picked and then dried off the vine, traditionally done in attics of houses up until the holy week before easter. After this a slow fermentation takes place and the wine will be aged for years to come. Traditionally in open oak vats, again in the attics for about 5- 10 years. Resulting in a very oxidative style with aromas of burnt nuts and caramel. A lesser-known red Vin Santo exists as well, made with mostly Sangiovese.
The rest of Tuscany are all the regions outside of the historical centre of Toscana, but make no mistake, these wines are just as good or sometimes even surpass their counterparts of the beating heart! This reflects in the large number of appellations:
- DOCG Morellino di Scansano
- DOCG Elba Aleatico Passito
- DOCG Motecucco Sangiovese
- DOCG Val di Carnio Rosso
- DOCG Suvereto
- DOC Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario
- DOC Bianco di Pitigliano
- DOC Bolgheri (Sassicaia)
- DOC Candia dei Colli Apuani
- DOC Capalbio
- DOC Colli di Luni
- DOC Cortona
- DOC Elba
- DOC Grance Senesi
- DOC Maremma Toscana
- DOC Montecarlo
- DOC Montecucco
- DOC Monteregio di Massa Marittima
- DOC Montescudaio
- DOC Parrina
- DOC San Torpè
- DOC Sovana
- DOC Terratico di Bibbona
- DOC Terre di Casole
- DOC Terre di Pisa
- DOC Valdichiana
- DOC Val di Cornia
- DOC Val d’Arno di Sopra
- DOC Valdinievole
Throughout these parts of Toscana, a lot of winemakers wanted to experiment with international varieties, focussing on the Bordeaux-blend. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. By turning away from Sangiovese (although sometimes used in blends as a supporting role), a lot of these winemakers needed to declassify their wines to Vino da Tavola or IGT, the more generic appellation. Still outstanding results were made, pushing up the prices and quality, these generic appellations surpassed some of the DOC’s and DOCG’s. The main example can be found in Bolgheri, where the wine of Sassicaia was produced. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangoiovese has made tremendous contributions to quality levels in all of Tuscany. No surprise that it has been granted the DOC status since 1994, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia. With many still wondering when the DOCG status will be granted.
Most of the other DOCG’s still revolves around the use of Sangiovese, either as single variety or part of a blend. Exception is the grape variety of Aleatico from the island of Elba. Here comes the DOCG Elba Aleatico Passito, where a sweet wine is produced from this red variety appasimento styl, drying the grapes off the vine concentrating its aromas. Dry red and whites are also produced on the island under the DOC Elba.
In the direction of Lazio, we find the DOC Maremma Toscana, where outstanding results are booked with a variety of local and international grape varieties. Think of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, Trebbiano and Ansonica for the white. For the red we see plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah.
On a culinary level, Toscana has so much to offer as well. Think of ‘Crostini con Acciuche e Burru’ anchovies on toasted bread with butter with a crisp Vermentino, Vernaccia or even a fuller bodied Chardonnay from Maremma. For the ‘Pappardelle alla Lepre’ pappardelle with slow-cooked hare with a beautiful Brunello, if you make the dish rather rich. Serve a softer Chianti with ‘Salsicca al Finocchio con Cavolo Nero’, sausage with fennel and palm cabbage. Especially when the Chianti is young and displays a high acidity and notes of tomato leaf. Vin Santo is best served with ‘Biscotti di Prato’ or called ‘Cantuccini’. Hard textured biscuits made with almonds, which you dip in the Vin Santo. Buon appetito!
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