For this issue of Unusual Sparkling, I went back to my Belgian roots, and almost all the way to my birth region. An hours’ drive down south from the region of Bruges, where I grew up, you find the Flemish wine region of Heuvelland. Here the use of the right varieties has made it possible to grow grapes in this colder climate and they lend themselves perfectly well for the production of sparkling wine. The Auxerrois grape is a variety that gains popularity within the northern wine growing countries, due to its early ripening character.
In a lot of northern European countries, we see a high usage of what we call hybrid grape varieties because these would be better equipped to withstand the colder temperatures and better resistant to different diseases that could harm the vine. A hybrid variety emerges when two more grapes from different Vitis species are crossed, which is very different from the usual crossbreeds we encounter in the world of wine, where two varieties of one Vitis species (the Vitis Vinifera) are crossed into a new variety. The big difference will be the difference in quality. Overall, the classic varieties of the Vitis Vinifera will display a higher quality than the hybrid grapes will. In the total wine landscape of Belgium, we see both hybrids as classical varieties be planted, with a bit more focus on the classical varieties. In the wine region of Heuvelland you do find plantings of different grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Auxerrois.
The grape of Auxerrois is a French variety that, as a lot of varieties do, have a bit of an unclear origin. The name does refer to the city of Auxerre, which can be found somewhat in between Paris and Dijon, but has no plantings of the grape whatsoever. Highly likely it travelled from there towards the Alsace area and the south of Germany. Further DNA research needs to determine where the grape is coming from, some state it to be related to the Chardonnay, Pinot Gris or the Pinot Blanc, while others state it to be the result of a crossing between Pinot Blanc and Heunisch Weiss (Gouias Blanc). The grape displays notes of ripe yellow fruit like a touch of peach and further some roasted almonds but has its fair amount of citrus fruit and a lively refined acidity as well. This profile lends it to be the perfect blending partner with (it’s maybe cousin) Chardonnay, along with the lively acidity, enhanced with the early picking and the cooler climate an obvious choice for local sparkling.
Entre Deux Monts refers to the two hills of ‘Rodeberg’ and ‘Zwarteberg’ in the heart of Heuvelland, in Westouter. This is a small Village down south from Ieper, touching the border with France, where the first World War was fought. At the winery of Entre Deux Monts, which roughly translated means ‘Between two mountains’, even though there no real mountains in the region but hills, perfect elegance and finesse is obtained in their sparkling wines. Apart from the usage of Chardonnay and even Pinot Noir (!) a percentage of the aromatic Auxerrois is used as well, this to add fruity aromas and enhance the lively acidity. The winery has chosen to use the Methode Traditionelle, where the second fermentation leads to more aging notes and a touch of bread yeast and if you’re lucky, some brioche. In that sense, many of the sparkling wines produced by Entre Deux Monts, can match with different Crémant and Sekt and in some cases even top it! The sparkling of course is a perfect choice to serve with aperitif but can also be served with light crisp fish dishes such as the Fruits de Mer, ceviche, blue eyed cod or fresh garden salads.
When visiting this vineyard, you can make long walks aside the grape vines and have different tastings on the property. Next to that, make sure you visit the city of Ieper with a beautiful selection of fine dining restaurants, but also to soak in the history of the first World War.
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