Krispel Basaltwein, B1 Wien im Stein
For the purpose of the D6 part of my WSET4 studies, I was lucky enough to have the option on selecting ‘Orange Wines’ as a topic for research. It meant I got the change to taste the legendary Basaltwein B1 of Weingut Krispel from Autria, which certainly exceeds its reputation!
I really must not go into the depth of orange wine when describing this wine, as this wine’s main focus is on expressing its volcanic terroir. You might go as far as to state that the wine is orange by accident, and simply as a by-feature of the actual result of the wine.
About Basalt
What is basalt? Putting it quite simple, Basalt is a volcanic rock. An aphanitic, meaning fine-grained, volcanic rock that is high in iron and magnesium. Steiermark, or Styria in English, is the larger region that includes the Steierisches Vulkanland in the southeast. An ancient active volcanic area that had many flows of magma over the years. This magna then solidified and became what we know as the black basalt for which the area is famous. The grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (of which the B1 is made of), do extremely well on these volcanic soils and lead to a beautiful expression of flint and herbs. Of course, this type of soil leads to all kinds of benefits for the health of the vines. The iron and magnesium in the soil ensures the making of chlorophyl, that in sufficient levels leads to better photosynthesis, that in turn then leads to optimum ripening of the grapes. This optimum ripening gets further support from the climate, which is continental but with strong Mediterranean influences. However, the diurnal range does ensure that the grapes enjoy a prolonged growing season, enabling the grapes to ripen fully.
Working with grapes of this level of concentration it serves as a great benefit when your aim is to produce high quality wine. At Weingut Krispel this is an understatement. For the B1, grapes are picked from the plots with the highest concentration of Basalt and then get fermented on their skins. The fermentation on the skins was chosen for the aromas that reflect the flint and herbs of the basalt, which is the true aim of this wine. Fermentation happens with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks. Temperatures do not increase 24 degrees Celsius, as the fruit aromas and the acidity is important for the overall structure and balance. The grapes stay in contact with their skins for a minimum of 2 weeks, ensuring maximum extraction of aromas. After all these winemaking processes comes the most unique and identifying feature for the resulting wine, the ageing process. The wine ages for 6-7 years in Basalt, that results in a number of benefits that increases the complexity of this wine. Basalt is essentially neutral and along with the thermal stability the primary fruit aromas are better sustained. The volcanic vessel can further enhance the flint and herbaceous notes of the wine and will soften the tannins coming from the skins and stems. One of the most defying features is that the vessels allow small amounts of oxygen that lead to an oxidised character in the wine and hence greater longevity and ageing potential.
The resulting wine has a golden-amber colour with notes of peach, pear, apricot, flint, dried hay, burnt hazelnuts and almonds, and apple skin. The wine has a high acidity and a long finish. This wine is definitely made for bottle ageing and is very gastronomical! Think of matured cheeses, vegetarian dishes, roasted pumpkin, cured salmon, smoked veal and much, much more! This wine should not be approached as an orange wine, as it is so much more! I recommend every wine lover and connoisseur in the world to try this wine, as it is an absolute gem!
For more information go to Genussgut Krispel | Beste Weine und Kulinarik aus der Steiermark
Or visit Stefan Krispel at his winery, there is a restaurant as well!
Neusetz 29
8345 Hof bei Straden, Austria
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