Sicily is the largest Island in the Mediterranean Sea and is mostly known for the production of the fortified wine Marsala, coming from the like-named fisherman’s town. Apart from that, high amounts of white and red varieties are planted. With the most known Grillo and Nero d’Avola. However, the Frappato and Nerello Mascalese deserve to be brought to the attention as well.
The dry wines of Sicily are upcoming, and more and more winemakers concentrate on the production of these styles rather than on Marsala.
The capital city Palermo is located in the north of the island and is the ideal starting point. It reflects the diversity of the island perfectly. The island lies between Italy and Tunesia/Africa but is actually part of neither. Palermo lies closer to Tunis than to Rome. The island was conquered by different peoples and empires, and each of them left their mark. You stumble from one culture into the other. This is a trend that we find throughout the whole island, but in Palermo in particular. Go and check out the grand cathedral. The original building was built as a mosque, then rebuilt by Normandin crusaders to Christian standards, at last the Byzantian people left their style in the building as well, with a very impressive structure as a result. An interaction like this will be found in the island’s delicious cuisine as well.
Looking at grape varieties, the star among the white is definitely the Grillo. This typical Sicilian variety can be found mostly in the west part of the island. Apart from being one of the most important varieties for Marsala wine, this grape is perfect for still dry wine as well. Grillo can withstand the heat and due to its thick skin, can retain water perfectly. The grape displays aromas of tropical fruit like pineapple and apricot, but certain regions provide a counterpart of minerality and a soft yet present acidity.
In terms of legislation, we find many wines with IGT status, which can include the varieties Chardonnay and Merlot.
The island has 23 DOC appellations and only 1 DOCG. The DOCG has slightly stricter conditions. The DOCG here is the one from Cerasuolo di Vittoria and is made with the blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. The DOCG is coming from the southeast part of Sicily. Nero d’Avola is locally called Calabrese and has to be between 50-70% part of the blend, supported with the Frappato grape. Legislation states that there needs to be a minimum level of alcohol of 13%. More and more winemakers choose to not age the wine on oak, but only use amphoras. This way the fruity character of the Frappato gets preserved and counters the full body of the Nero d’Avola.
The 22 DOCs go as followed:
- DOC Alcamo
- DOC Contea di Sclafani
- DOC Contesa Entellina
- DOC Delia Nivolelli
- DOC Eloro
- DOC Erice
- DOC Etna
- DOC Faro
- DOC Malvasia delle Lipari
- DOC Mamertino
- DOC Marsala
- DOC Menfi
- DOC Monreale
- DOC Moscato di Pantelleria, Passito di Pantelleria e Pantelleria
- DOC Noto
- DOC Riesi
- DOC Salaparuta
- DOC Sambuca di Sicilia
- DOC Santa Margherita di Belice
- DOC Sciacca
- DOC Sicilia
- DOC Siracusa
- DOC Vittoria
Above-described DOCs cannot all be discussed into detail, but we were able to visit the most well-known,
Just west of Palermo we find the appellation of DOC Alcamo, which produces a full assortment of different styles: white, red, rose, but also sparkling and dessert wines. In terms of white varieties, the focus mainly lies on the Catarratto grape, along with local Inzolia, Grillo, Italian Grecanico (Garganega), but also Sauvignon Blanc, Muller- Thurgau and Chardonnay. The Catarratto is a grape that is easily grown, and wines are not very complex. Mostly with a medium body and medium level of acidity.
For the reds a combination of local and international will also be used. We see a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, along with Calabrese (Nero d’Avola), Merlot and Syrah.
Travelling towards the west coast, you will find yourself in the fisherman’s town of Marsala, of course known for the like named fortified wine. DOC Marsala is one of the oldest appellations of the island. There are different types of Marsala that vary in quality. Even though Marsala can be made of both white and red varieties, the main part of the production is white. In the base Marsala will always be a dry wine.
For the white varieties the choice will often go to Grillo and Catarratto, that have been grown on limestone soil. The colour given to the white Marsala will be oro and ambra, referring to the golden and amber colour.
The less known red Marsala is produced with Nero d’Avola, Perricone and Nerello. Sometimes 30% of white grapes will get added. A red Marsala is called rubino.
Marsala Fine
To the base wine, a mixture of wine alcohol and passito wine will be added. This contains high levels of sugar, so the wine gets sweeter, and the extra level of alcohol will increase. When the wine reaches a level of 17%, the winemaker will add grape must or locally called ‘vino cotto’. The Fine ages for one year and gets released.
Marsala Superiore
A level up from the Fine and follows the same sequence initially, with this difference that the wine needs to age for a minimum of 2 years before its release.
Marsala Superiore Riserva
This level also gets determined by the length of aging. The Riserva is a Superiore that has aged for a minimum of 4 years.
Marsala Vergine
This is the highest level of Marsala and follows a different sequence than above-described levels. This type is always dry and made of only white varieties. The colour is amber yellow. The base contains Grillo and Caterratto that have aged for 5 years on Slavonian oak. After aging the winemaker will add alcohol to reach a level of 18%. No grape must is added, but a touch of caramel can be added to have a slightly darker colour. After that the wine ages in oak barrels in a solera system.
Marsala Vergine Riserva
The last level is the Marsala Vergine Riserva that has aged for 10 years in the solera system.
Apart from that we have a Marsala type that is not included in the DOC. It is the Marsala Speciale. This is a Marsala Fine where different flavours get added, for instance Marsala al Caffe (coffee), Marsala alla Mandorla (almonds), Marsala alla Fragola (strawberries).
From Marsala we travelled on to the city of Enna and passed through the appellation area of Contessa Entellina. Here the grape variety is mentioned on the label. White wines are made of the classical varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Grecanico, but also the local Catarratto Bianco and Inzolia are very popular. The Inzolia is an Italian white variety that is mostly planted in the western part of the island. Sometimes this grape gets used for the production of Marsala as well. The Inzolia has a nutty structure and is very popular in Tuscany as well, where the grape is called Ansonica. Red wines are produced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), Merlot, Nero d’Avola, and Syrah. There is also a production of dessert and rosé wine.
The city of Enna lies on an altitude of 1000 meter and is one of the highest larger cities in the world. Even though the city is not located in a wine region, it cannot be skipped. In the city the ruins of the temple of Demeter can be found, the goddess of fertility and where the quality mark of Demeter is derived from. Wines with this quality mark are biodynamic and produced according to Steiner, who divides nature into different elements. This quality mark can lead to some very interesting wines. Standing on the ruins of the temple, you will have a breathtaking view over the valleys surrounding the city. In the city you can have delicious meat dishes that are fantastically matched with red wines from the island.
Restaurant Centrale
Piazza Vi Dicembre 9
94100 Enna
The metropole Catania is located in the DOC Etna wine region. The city gets characterized by this volcano. In 1693 a big earthquake destroyed the city almost completely. The city was rebuilt with lava stone, along with the Barok style of the buildings, Catania now has its typical image. Go and visit the daily fish market and the Piazza dell’ Indrizzo.
At the wine bar/restaurant DOC you will find the most delicious local food, an elaborated wine list and great hospitality!
DOC
Via V. Emanuele 171
95121 Catania
The area surrounding the active volcano Etna is a DOC that has grown interest over the last years. Production includes white, red and rosé wines. Each style reflects the minerality of the fertile lava soil. For the red and rosé the Nerello grapes are the most important. This in the Nerello Mascalese and the Nerello Mantelatto. The Nerello Mascalese displays notes of red fruit like red cherries and dried raspberry, along with a touch of smoke and dried green herbs like oregano, thyme and rosemary. It is an aromatic, rare variety, originated from Sicily. The Nerello Mantelatto or Nerello Cappccio has similar characteristics of herbs, fresh red forest fruit and soil. This grape as well is typical Sicilian.
The beautiful old cities of Siracusa and Noto are located in two similar appellations featuring the Moscato grape. The DOC of Moscato di Siracusa and Moscato di Noto. Around the city of Noto we find the grape of Moscato Bianco, or Zibibbo or Muscat d’Alexandria. This grape is perfect to produce a dessert wine from. On small scale sparkling gets produced as well, no red.
In Siracusa the Zibibbo is mainly used for the production of dry white, with a floral character. Red is produced with the varieties of Nero d’Avola and Syrah. A dry Zibibbo is a perfect match for all Mediterranean seafood, you can try the delicious interaction out at Restaurant Anchovies.
Restaurant Anchovies
Via Capodieci 15
96100 Syracusa
The Nero d’Avola grape is named after the town Avola in the southeast of the island, the black of Avola. It is a red variety originated from Sicily and apart from there only cultivated on a small scale in Argentina. These days Avola is more known for its almonds than for the Nero d’Avola grape. The grape leads to firm red wines with a lot of spiciness, for that reason often gets compared to the Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. The most well-known synonym is Calabrese.
West of this region we find the only DOCG of the island: DOCG Cerasuolo di Vittoria or Frappato di Vittoria. This is a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Frappato is not originated from Sicily but is today almost only cultivated here. Most likely the origin lies somewhere in Tuscany, because its parent is the Sangiovese. The Frappato leads to red wines with a lower number of tannins, a bouquet of red fruit and colourful flowers, but also a high complexity. There is an interesting interplay with Nero d’Avola.
Messina is the most important cruise terminal of the island and is found in the DOC of Faro. DOC Faro produces only reds made of a blend of 6 different varieties, with Nerello Mascalese as leading star.
Our trip was not planned into detail. We knew that Palermo would be our starting- and finishing point. We had a few appointments with different wineries on opposite sides of the island. In between we had all the freedom to explore the island. Eventually we travelled only with public transport. This was a huge adventure, filled with challenges, but also delicious food, very interesting wine and an overflow of culture, nature and stunning weather!
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