For the second part of our trip, we took the train from Cosenza to Taranto in Puglia, crossing the region of Basilicata. We travelled the rest of Puglia through the cities of Lecce and Bari, from there up north through Molise to Pescara and Scurcola Marsicana in Abruzzo. The last stop before heading back to the capital of Rome. Doing everything by public transport! Read below article about the second part of our adventures, this time in Puglia and Abruzzo!
Taking the train from Cosenza to Taranto takes approximately 3 hours and passes by the stunning region of Basilicata! The region is one of the least populated in all of Italy, with mass tourism being nothing but a myth here. The landscape is rough, wild and untouched. Passing through by train, I felt a deep sense of regret not stopping and exploring, what must have been, a rough but beautiful diamond. Cities like Matera and Metaponto should be well worth the visit! Due to the abandon vibe, the region is not that well-known for its wine production. However, Basilicata has one DOCG and that is one to look out for: DOCG Aglianico del Vulture Superiore! The grape variety of Aglianico is known as the ‘Barolo of the South’ and grows on the slopes of the died-out volcano Monte Vulture, just north of the city Potenza. The wine from this DOCG must at least age for one year, while the Vecchio must age for three, and the Riserva for five years. It develops wines with dark fruit characters, smokiness and spice. The grape is high in acidity and contains a high number of tannins. Perfect for traditional meat dishes such as the Paccheri con Salsiccia, a pasta dish made with flavourful sausage and tomatoes.
The region does have a handful of DOC’s, with the white mainly focusing on the floral Malvasia grapes, but DOC Matera does include the Greco grape as well, which will add freshness to the blend. This freshness is needed if it is to be paired with the local Nasello al Forno, an oven dish made with hake fish, potatoes, lemon, garlic and black olives!
We arrived by train in Taranto, where we would start our journey throughout the region of Puglia. The city has been highly bombarded during the second World War but still lots of the old city centre managed to be conserved. At this point we were pretty tired and were looking for a hotel where we could possibly stay 2-3 nights and that would have facilities to offer. We came across hotel Delfino, near the waterside and the old city centre. This beautiful hotel offered us a swimming pool, a bar and some excellent wine and dine options. During these days the temperature did exceed 35 degrees and more during the afternoon. So, this hotel was perfect for us to relax and catch our breath. During the afternoon we could swim, read a book in the lobby/bar or write for the website. From around 5 pm we would take a walk along the waterside or in the city and by 7- 8 pm we could go for dinner at our hotel. We do highly recommend a break like this when travelling larger distances. Hotel Delfino is the perfect place to do so!
Hotel Delfino
Viale Vergilio 66
74121 Taranto
Puglia is a very fertile region known for growing wheat, olives, almonds, figs and grapes. It has a high focus on the production of bulk wine however, in recent years the quality of the overall wines has been improving significantly. Still high-quality wines only make up about 4% of the total wine production with 4 DOCG and 28 DOC appellations. Close to Taranto we find the DOC Lizzano that makes a variety of wine styles, including frizzante and spumante, in white red and rosé. The red varieties used are Negroamaro, Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese and Montepulciano. For whites we find the Trebbiano Toscano, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco grapes.
The most well-known appellation in the area is of course the DOCG Primitivo di Manduria, made with 100% of Primitivo, only in red. Primitivo grapes produce a firm and bold style with aromas such as dried black plums, cinnamon, sweet tobacco and old leather. Due to its higher level of alcohol, it is always recommended to drink a Primitivo slightly chilled. The Primitivo di Manduria is produced in a sweet version as well, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale as a result of late harvest. This type of Primitivo goes beautifully with all kinds of blue cheeses, for instance the Apulian Blu di Fattoria from northern Puglia.
Important to know is that DNA research has shown that the Primitivo grape is not the same as the Californian Zinfandel but would be identical twin brothers both originated from the same Croatian variety Plavec Mali. Although a lot of sources contradict one and other.
From Taranto we took the train to the city of Lecce (1h45 min, direct), which is referred to as the ‘Florence of the South’, due to its Baroque style of buildings that were build in the 17th century. The buildings are mainly made of the stone ‘Pietra di Lecce’, giving the buildings it characteristic look. It was here where we had to honour to have dinner in the famous 1-star Michelin restaurant of Bros’, in the centre of the city! Here we were surprised by the innovative and above all creative approach of chef Floriano Pelligrino and his wife Isabella Poti in their 20 (!)- course meal, with wine pairing. Nowadays they left Lecce and opened a new restaurant and concept in Martina Franca on below address:
Villa San Martino
SS 172, 59 (Via Taranto-Zona G)
74015 Martina Franca
Around Lecce we find a high number of plantings of the Negroamaro grape. Roughly translated as ‘black bitter’, the Negroamaro produces, much like Primitivo, very ripe aromas of sun baked red and black fruit characters such as blackcurrant, black cherries, cinnamon and dried thyme. Also, with its higher level of alcohol, serve it slightly chilled. The grape is the star player of different appellations, but most well-known in the DOC Brindisi, where it can be supported by Malvasia Nera, Sangiovese and Susumaniello. Also in the DOC Squinzano, DOC Galatina, DOC Salice Salento, the Negroamaro plays an important role. The latter 2 DOC are also produced in white wines, with mainly Chardonnay for Galantina and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Bianco in Salice Salento. Local meat dishes from Lecce work especially well with the intense flavours of the Negroamaro. Think of Pezzetti di Calvallo al Sugo, a dish made with stewed horse meat in tomato sauce with onions, and the Bombette, rolls of pig meat filled with cheese.
After our culinary adventures in Lecce, it was time to hop on the train again towards our last stop in Puglia, Bari! This ride only took 1h and 45 minutes as well. The city of Bari used to be a very important trade centre back under the Roman Empire and now it is still a very important harbour city and the capital of Puglia. From here you can take ferries to Croatia and Greece. The city is also very popular for the sandwich Panino Con Polpo made with slowly grilled octopus and seasoned with a mixture of olive oil, black pepper, salt and parsley, served in a bread roll.
At the central station of Bari, you can take a bus down to Alberobello, the capital of the Trulli and visit whole streets and even a cathedral made of these typical trulli- style. Just south of this charming town we find the appellation of DOC Locorontondo, only whites made with the varieties Verdeca and Bianco d’Alessano. Verdeca has a beautiful interplay going on between citrus and exotic fruit characters, along with a lively acidity. A beautiful match for the Panino Con Polpo!
The large region south of Bari is known for the other 3 DOCG of Puglia: DOCG Castel del Monte del Bombino Nero, DOCG Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Reserva and DOCG Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva. These appellations centre around the majestic castle of emperor Frederic II, holy Roman Emperor, who was king of Sicily, Germany, Italy and Jerusalem. The castle does remind you of his wealth and power back in the day!
Two of the appellations are focussed on a particular grape variety, Bombino Nero and Nero di Troia, and must be at least 90% part of the blend. Bombino Nero is a red Apulian variety that has very thick skin, leading to deeply coloured wines, with subtle aromas of red fruit. The Nero di Troia most likely refers to the city of Troia, a Byzantine, and Normandin build and conquered fort that has been destroyed by Frederic II at one point. The red variety comes from Puglia and gives of a bit softer aroma of red cherries, forest fruit, vanilla and cinnamon. It is also known as the Uva di Troia, meaning the grape of Troia.
The other DOCG of Rosso Riserva features a blend of Uva di Troia and Bombino, along with Aglianico, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Nero. A powerful blend that works perfectly with local meat dishes. Also, the Bombino Nero and Nero di Troia pair very well with dishes made with lamb and goat’s meat, often grilled with bacon, rosemary and sage.
It was time to leave Puglia behind an take the train to Abruzzo, via Molise. As it was a direct train and we did not visit Molise, just a short recap of the wines produced will follow. The region only has 4 DOC and no DOCG. The region’s focus will be on different varieties, mainly on the Bombino and Trebbiano for the white grapes and the Montepulciano, Tintilia and Sangiovese for the red varieties. Vineyards are planted mostly along the coastal region, to enjoy the cool sea breezes during the summer heat. Different styles of wine are produced in the different appellations with DOC Biferno, DOC Molise, DOC Pentro d’Iserna for white, red, rosé, sweet and sparkling. The last appellation of DOC Tintilia del Molise will focus entirely on red wine produced from the Tintilia grape. A local Molise variety (some sources say originated from Spain!), that produces deep-coloured wines, with a bold structure, yet very fruity. Made to drink now and/or be aged over time.
After the train entered Abruzzo and before entering the inland of Italy, we decided to stop at Pescara. Here we intended to enjoy the last of the beach days and then heading inland with one more stop in Abruzzo, before heading to our last stop Rome. The train ride from Bari to Pescara takes about 3 hours.
This, rather larger, city along the Adriatic coast has everything to relax for just a couple of days. Spending two nights here, we enjoyed our time lying on the beach, going for walks along the promenade and having seafood dinners in one of the many restaurants. Culturally speaking Pescara is very different from other Italian cities, as it has suffered through heavy bombardments in the second World War, destroying most if not all the old city centre. Nowadays the city is rather modern, with a large marina and international airport. In the region of Abruzzo there is only one DOCG and about 8 DOC. Because Pescara is a fisherman’s city, the dry Trebbiano wines work extremely well with the cuisine based on seafood. The Trebbiano grape planted here is slightly different then the Trebbiano Toscano (Ugni Blanc) or Trebbiano di Soave (Verdicchio), although all part of the same family or series. The variety from Abruzzo shows more aromatic flavours, along with notes of sea salt and seashell, dried basil and cured lemon. Look out for DOC Trebbiano d’Abruzzo or just DOC Abruzzo. Many of the restaurants along the promenade we visited, were very focussed on tourists and less on quality that could be provided from seafood from the Adriatic Sea. However, look out for the local dishes like Brodetto alla Pescarese, a stew based of a mixture of different types of seafood and Grigliata Miste di Pesce, which is different types of seafood grilled with local herbs.
We left Pescara and after a 3.5-hour train ride we arrived in Scurcola Marsicana. A beautiful medieval town close to the city of L’Aquila. We did make the mistake on booking a hotel outside of the town centre and it was almost one hour walking from the train station. Not that very far, but the absence of a sidewalk and with high speeding cars, it was not a very pleasant walk! Due to that location, we were pretty far of the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo and the reserve of Sirente-Velino. Since w did not have a car, we were pretty immobilized. That was a shame, because there is a lot to see in the region. We were able to make some walks, but we do recommend to either choose a different destination by train or just rent a car and make your way to the national park. The hotel did offer a swimming pool and a restaurant, so we were able to relax and enjoy the local cuisine and explore the red variety of the region: Montepulciano!
The only DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – Coline Teramane comes from the best sub-region of Abruzzo. Up north from Pescara and right under the border south of Le Marche. Here the Montepulciano will develop a meaty, savoury structure, along with aromas like spiced plum, redcurrant, dried mediterranean herbs and espresso. Good quality is also found in DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and DOC Villamagna. Notable is the rosé wine made of the Montepulciano and called DOC Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, with Cerasuolo referring to the cherry colour of the rosé wine. Due to is high number of tannins, bold structure, herbaceous notes and still lively acidity the Montepulciano goes very well with a number of local meat dishes. Think of Agnello a Scottadito referring to lambchops to ‘burn your fingers’ because it is finger licking good. The chops are either grilled or barbecued, along with fresh mint, rosemary, sea salt and black pepper. Or with Salciccia di Fegado a typical type of pork sausage that is seasoned, not only with salt and pepper, but also with garlic, orange peel and sometimes sweet fennel. It can be aged and eaten as a charcuterie type of made fresh and be grilled or fried.
After this it was time for us to take the train back to Rome, and from there take a plane back to Amsterdam. This trip was exhausting, rewarding, exhilarating, exciting, tasteful, knowledgeable, cultural, culinary, adventurous and everything in between! We do hope that these short articles help out everyone who is planning on undertaking a traveling trip with public transport around Southern Italy! You will not be disappointed!
To read the first article about our travels, click here Travelling Southern Italy: Lazio, Campania & Calabria
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